Before you scrap the pack,
check the $60 relay.

Sometimes — and we will tell you early if your case is not one of them. A complete pack is hundreds of kilograms of UN3480 Class 9 freight: certified dangerous-goods packaging, documentation, a licensed sea or land route, weeks of transit, and a certified workshop waiting at the other end. For importers and workshops consolidating shipments the math can work, and we quote it seriously. For one private car it usually does not, and we say so instead of taking a deposit first. Before you plan around a pack at all: run the three checks at the top of this page. A large share of "the pack is dead" verdicts end at a relay or a board that flies courier.

Often, yes — and it is one of the most sensible repairs in this family when the diagnosis points that way. Two honest caveats. First, the board must match your pack's hardware revision exactly, which is why we ask for the battery code and photos of the old board rather than just the car model — the same vehicle year can hide different pack electronics. Second, on some models a new board needs configuration or pairing with a service tool after installation; that is your workshop's step, and worth confirming they can do it before the board is ordered. Both caveats are cheaper than a module, and much cheaper than a pack.

On the pack's own nameplate — a printed plate or sticker on the battery casing, usually readable from underneath with the car on a lift, on some models under a service cover. It carries the pack model code, rated voltage and capacity: the Han EV pack in our index reads 135 Ah / 569 V, about 76 kWh, and that one line identifies a pack better than any forum thread. Photograph the whole plate rather than copying digits — take-off stock is matched by every field on it. If the car cannot go on a lift, send the VIN instead and we work from the factory configuration data.

With a measured capacity report — yes; without one — you are buying a story. Rated capacity is what the module was born with; measured capacity is what you are paying for, and the gap can be large: one recycled CATL LFP module in our own index is rated 80 Ah and measures 60–65 Ah. The listing says so openly, and our quote would too. Insist on the measured figure, the internal-resistance reading where available, and photos of the actual unit. A take-off module with honest numbers can be excellent value for an out-of-warranty car; the same module sold on its rating alone is a dispute waiting for a courier date.

Every used take-off part we supply ships documented in writing as: used take-off part, tested, working — with a 3-month warranty. That wording goes on the quote and the contract, not into a chat bubble, and it explicitly includes electronic parts — BMS master and sampling boards — because excluding the electronics would gut the warranty exactly where this family fails most. New components such as the Hongfa relays carry their maker's specification and our pre-dispatch check with photos. What we do not warrant is installation: high-voltage work belongs to your certified workshop, and the quote states that split plainly.

Identification first: send fault codes, VIN and photos, and we name the part within 24 hours. Then it depends entirely on which shipping row the part sits in. Relays, contactors, BMS boards, sensors and busbars — no lithium — go by express courier, 3–7 days door to door, worldwide. Anything containing cells moves by sea or land under UN3480 rules: think weeks, with dangerous-goods packaging and documentation, and we give you the real timeline before you commit rather than a cheerful estimate after. If the car is immobile and the diagnosis is still open, say so — we prioritise identifying whether your fix lives in the fast row, and it often does.